Practical, honest guides from our three weeks on safari: when to go, what it costs, what to pack and where to find the animals.

Dry seasons, rainy seasons, migration months and the cheapest time to go.

When the herds reach the Mara, where the river crossings happen, and how to plan.

Real daily costs for budget, mid-range and luxury trips, plus park fees.

The USD 30 entry permit, the official site, and what else to sort before you fly.

Colors to avoid, layers for cold mornings, and the 15 kg bush plane limit.

Lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo and rhino, and where Kenya's best sightings are.